Darwin

Another place I visited recently for work was Darwin.

I am a bit embarrassed to admit that, like a good many Australians of my age, I have seen much more of the world than I have of my own backyard, and I had never been to the Northern Territory before this trip. I had fairly low expectations of intolerable humidity and rednecks. It was humid, and there was a bit of redneckness too, but actually it was all quite charming and overall people, whilst ocker, were very laid back and friendly. I was pleasantly surprised to say that I quite enjoyed myself.

This photo (from the internet, not from my camera) comes from the Crocosauraus Cove tourist attraction in the middle of town. As I only had a small amount of time to sightsee (I was there for work after all), I asked the locals for advice on what to see and they recommended this place and the NT Museum and Gallery. They were good recommendations. The gallery/museum is very good and its highlight is a large exhibit on Cyclone Tracey including a terrifying darkroom with surround-sound effects of what the cyclone was like.

As for the 'cove' , it was much better than I thought. It has enclosures for a number of large, retired crocodiles, many of whom had been relocated as a result of having become too aggressive in their old age at other tourist parks. There are also a large number of hatchlings and juveniles there too (I'm not sure what happens to them as they grow, but suspect the handbags in the gift shop have something to do with it), and there is a very good reptile house where I spent quite a bit of time. There is also a lot of information about crocodilians and even a film on Darwin's history. I learnt a lot about the Indigenous people of Darwin, who apparently were welcoming of white settlers and had a very different relationship with Europeans than was the case in most other parts of the country.

But the highlight of the place is this glass enclosure where you can see the crocodiles from every angle and, for an exorbitant additional fee, you can be lowered into their enclosures to have a close encounter with them. Several rather gung-ho blokes did this during my visit. They were very disappointed to find that none of the 5 crocs were remotely interested in them - they would not move or even look at the so-called 'cage of death'. They did not respond to noises, splashing or any other desperate attempts for attention. It was all rather amusing.

Broken Hill

And now, for the belated start to my promised travelogue.

I was in Broken Hill for the first time a couple of months ago. I was there on a work assignment and had no idea what to expect of the place, my impressions of it basically formed by having seen 'Wake in Fright' and knowing that it was the birthplace of BHP.

From Canberra, it took me 3 flights in tiny aircraft via Sydney and Dubbo to get to Broken Hill. I was fascinated as I flew further over the Far West to see the land changing to that distinctive orange-red colour, and the huge expanses of land with long, straight roads on them. There had been much rain in the area before I was there and we flew over the Menindee lakes, which was quite fascinating. As we approached Broken Hill I look down at the red earth and saw the shadow of the plan and was reminded of the opening sequences from the TV show 'The Flying Doctors'. I thought of an article I had read some years ago about a German man who had watched that show in Germany and decided not only to study medicine as a result of being inspired by that show, but also ended up migrating to Australia and working for the Royal Flying Doctor Service! Imagine my surprise when I arrived at the quaint, security unconscious Broken Hill Airport to find on display out front the carcass of the aeroplane that was used in the TV show - I had forgotten that it was actually filmed in Broken Hill.

My immediate impressions of the place were that it was actually very fascinating - that red dirt, and that attractive desert tundra sort of green-grey plant that grows everywhere; the beauty of the grand old buildings contrasted with the fascinating ugliness of the old mine that dominates the centre of town, actually bisecting it; and of course the very friendly people.

I was there for one night and spent most of my time working, but after work I went for a swim in one of the best swimming pools I have seen (and one of the cheapest - only $2 for a swim in the desert! - and again the friendliness; I had forgotten my swimmers so they found a pair in the lost property for me to wear...). At night I went to the very nice Broken Earth restaurant, located on top of the old mine and with spectacular sunset views all over town. Later I had a drink at one oif the very many large pubs in town and chatted with some of the amiable locals.

The next day after work on my way home I was able to check out South Broken Hill with its beautifully preserved main street including intact 1950s shops and milk bar.

It was a great place to visit and I would hope to go back some day.