05 May 2009

Is afternoon tea becoming common? And does it need a "modern twist"?


It seems to me, as I sit here enjoying my afternoon cup of Russian Caravan, that everyone has "rediscovered" the art of taking tea. After my last post on the pleasures and perils of tea I did a little googling, and found that not only is afternoon tea all the rage, but that ever more hotels are seeking to squeeze a profit, and some high class kudos, from this most gracious of rituals. Could it be that afternoon tea is becoming, shall we say, common?

My partner Tom once observed, I think quite astutely, as we were sipping on tea and nibbling cucumber sandwiches in the lobby of some five star or other somewhere, that putting on afternoon tea is almost mandatory for any hotel that wants to classify itself as being a bit posh. That is, if a hotel has illusions to grandeur (and accompanying prices), they'd better be able to put on a decent tea.

Of course it's not all about credibility. In her book "Hotel Babylon", Imogen Edwards-Jones wrote that hotels make a huge profit on afternoon teas by using what is otherwise a dead space (usually a lobby or bar that is otherwise empty in the daytime) and for a minimal outlay of some sandwiches and pastries they charge a massive mark-up and make a tidy sum in return. And why not, so long as the product they are delivering is up to the mark and everyone is happy (this is NOT the case with the Sofitel Melbourne and their very poor afternoon tea at Sofi's Lounge, which I highly do not recommend).

What I find interesting now is that many people claim to do afternoon tea with a "modern twist". Does this mean that guests are seated on Le Corbusier chairs, one wonders? It seems not. It seems to relate to funky chinaware and "non-traditional" foods, such as lobster blinis instead of cucumber sandwiches. How intriguing it all sounds.

The modern twist on teas has been spearheaded, appropriately enough, in England, as outlined in this article. I must say that I was pretty interested in the "men's afternoon tea" and the "afternoon beats" tea with a DJ at the Mandeveille and Swissotel Howard Hotels respectively. Mental note for my next visit to London there. The photo I have used here is from the Swissotel's website and I must say, much as I like wicker furniture and potted palms, I do find this rather cool room pretty funky indeed. Maybe tea with a modern twist is a good idea?

Tea rooms across the Commonwealth from New Zealand to Canada and even here in little old Melbourne, Australia claim to be serving their afternoon teas with a "modern twist", or perhaps more accurately a contemporary twist. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong also claims to do a modern twist on afternoon tea, although I am not sure what the modern twist is. With that decor though I am keen to find out.

More examination is required, by me, to determine whether the teas are in fact served with a modern twist, or whether this is some marketing ploy to convince high spenders that tea is not only for Mothers Day. And that is not necessarily a bad thing - I think everyone should enjoy the pleasures of afternoon tea, not only grannies. It is a dreadful social disgrace and tragedy that we ever forgot what a useful and civilised thing afternoon tea is. So giving it a modern twist can only be a good thing - so long as the fundamentals are still there, and for me that means a restful decor, good tea, and a good selection of savouries and bite sized sweets.

And for the record, I am not at all keen on the increasingly popular "chocolate" teas or afternoon teas comprising only sweets - to me, that is just simply too vulgar and ghastly, and not at all gracious living.

For some more information on tea venues in Melbourne, look here and here. For information on tea venues in Sydney, look here.