Springtime in Curtin

So, for context, Curtin is the Canberra suburb where we live.

Today I planted some dwarf lemons and a cumquat in some pots on the back terrace. I also took a few other photos of our garden, which after all the recent rain in looking great.

Springtime in Canberra

Spring has certainly sprung in the national capital and the weather is glorious.

This weekend Tom and I went over to Lake Burley Griffin where we walked along the promenade and were delighted by this couple of black swans with their cygnets. We then went to see a very interesting exhibition contrasting east and west German architecture post-WWII at the Gallery of Australian Design. It was full of fascinating photos, plans and models and highlighted the similar approaches taken in both of the then nations to housing as well as commercial, leisure, cultural, civic and other public architecture and town planning.

We then walked over to have a look at the much anticipated, much delayed and now just newly opened National Gallery 'front door' and Indigenous art galleries. I must say I'm not quite sure how sympathetic the additions to the building are from the outside (you can judge for yourself from the pictures - don't you think all that glass somehow cheapens the uncompromising concrete brutality of the original?), but there is no question that the interior improvements are fantastic - several, huge new Indigenous art galleries, a much better shop, a more lobby-like entrance space. Overall, I think it is a big improvement - from the inside. I do however loathe their hideous 'new' retro '80s NGA logo - it's cheap and vile.

After a browse in the Portrait Gallery bookshop across the road (absurdly small and poky - was it an afterthought?), and some tut-tutting about the disgraceful state of disrepair of the outdoor spaces around the shamefully neglected High Court, we drove over to Yarralumla Nursery to buy some plants for the garden.

First produce of the season

Great excitement today as I picked my first bunch of asparagus for the year.

These are truly amazing plants, cropping for over 20 years. We have four plants in the backyard. They are so productive that by December we'll almost be sick of the taste of asparagus, but then there are so many things you can do with it - steamed, blanched, in a soup, baked in quiche or pie (it goes well with chicken), cold in salads, grilled on the BBQ.

I'll fry these in some butter and serve them with pepper and Parmesan cheese tonight.

Asian high tea (kind of)

This past weekend Tom and I went to Melbourne, which is always a nice thing to do (I still miss living there, I must admit).

We stayed with Tom's parents in East Melbourne, near to my old flat in Richmond and we had a walk around Bridge Road and down to the Gleadell Street Markets. I bought a couple of Chinese boxes that I had been eyeing off for over a year (I bought them as a birthday present to myself, with my birthday being later this week). We also saw a movie at the Palace Como and had a nice Japanese dinner at the great restaurant across the road, just like old days :)

Over the weekend we also went to the Oriental Tea House in South Yarra, which is a nice place to get a late night yum cha or practically any kind of fancy tea you might need. There were having an Oriental style high tea, in which we partook. It was basically a selection of savoury and sweet dim sum with tea. It was quite nice although somehow not quite as special as I'd hoped.

Sydney photos

Weekend in Sydney

Recently I had a few days in Sydney for work and stayed for the weekend. I decided to try afternoon tea at the Stamford Circular Quay. I kept my expectations low, given that hotel teas in Australia are often disappointing. I had planned (for some years actually) to try afternoon tea at the Harrogate Tea Room in Pyrmont, but much to my consternation I discovered they'd closed their tea shop. Vexed but not defeated, I tried the Stamford (as I happened to be staying there anyway).

I am pleased to report that it surpassed my low expectations, and was even pleasant. It is held in the very old fashioned style bar in the heritage part of the hotel (think gentleman's club - fireplace, smoky mirrors, leather chesterfields etc). The food was actually quite well chosen - the sandwiches (always a barometer for me) were interesting, and there were some little hot things too. The tea itself was quite interesting too - they use a brand called Ronnefelt, German and available only the the hospitality industry. I had oolong and it was very nice indeed. I was able to spend an hour or so there nibbling away and sipping as I read the paper by myself and I found it all very relaxing.

The next day I caught a very over to Balmain, whence I had never been before. I had planned to visit the famous Adriano Zumbo, allegedly an Australian version of Pierre Herme (apparently the former being a protege of the latter) - and having experienced one of the jaw droppingly beautiful Paris outlets of Pierre Herme, where macaroons are displayed in jewellery cases, I had been looking forward to visiting Adriano Zumbo for quite a few years (ever since I read this article). Unfortunately, when I got there I saw what looked like a Depression-ere breadline outside the store. The macaroons may be heaven-sent, and I do like a good macaroon, but I'll never know because I am not about to line up for them no matter how good.

I did however enjoy a lovely perambulation along Darling Street from Balmain to Rozelle, enjoying two flea markets and a lovely book fair on the way (plus I got a coffee and a rather good eclair from another, less popular patisserie down the road), and eventually found my way to Norton Street where I saw a film (The Farewell Affair, and quite it was too) and browsed Berkelouw's before catching the light rail back into town - the first time I had ever caught the Sydney tram. It was quite good - why they are taking so long to expand the line further west and around the CBD is anyone's guess.

All in all, a very pleasant Sydney diversion.

Darwin

Another place I visited recently for work was Darwin.

I am a bit embarrassed to admit that, like a good many Australians of my age, I have seen much more of the world than I have of my own backyard, and I had never been to the Northern Territory before this trip. I had fairly low expectations of intolerable humidity and rednecks. It was humid, and there was a bit of redneckness too, but actually it was all quite charming and overall people, whilst ocker, were very laid back and friendly. I was pleasantly surprised to say that I quite enjoyed myself.

This photo (from the internet, not from my camera) comes from the Crocosauraus Cove tourist attraction in the middle of town. As I only had a small amount of time to sightsee (I was there for work after all), I asked the locals for advice on what to see and they recommended this place and the NT Museum and Gallery. They were good recommendations. The gallery/museum is very good and its highlight is a large exhibit on Cyclone Tracey including a terrifying darkroom with surround-sound effects of what the cyclone was like.

As for the 'cove' , it was much better than I thought. It has enclosures for a number of large, retired crocodiles, many of whom had been relocated as a result of having become too aggressive in their old age at other tourist parks. There are also a large number of hatchlings and juveniles there too (I'm not sure what happens to them as they grow, but suspect the handbags in the gift shop have something to do with it), and there is a very good reptile house where I spent quite a bit of time. There is also a lot of information about crocodilians and even a film on Darwin's history. I learnt a lot about the Indigenous people of Darwin, who apparently were welcoming of white settlers and had a very different relationship with Europeans than was the case in most other parts of the country.

But the highlight of the place is this glass enclosure where you can see the crocodiles from every angle and, for an exorbitant additional fee, you can be lowered into their enclosures to have a close encounter with them. Several rather gung-ho blokes did this during my visit. They were very disappointed to find that none of the 5 crocs were remotely interested in them - they would not move or even look at the so-called 'cage of death'. They did not respond to noises, splashing or any other desperate attempts for attention. It was all rather amusing.

Broken Hill

And now, for the belated start to my promised travelogue.

I was in Broken Hill for the first time a couple of months ago. I was there on a work assignment and had no idea what to expect of the place, my impressions of it basically formed by having seen 'Wake in Fright' and knowing that it was the birthplace of BHP.

From Canberra, it took me 3 flights in tiny aircraft via Sydney and Dubbo to get to Broken Hill. I was fascinated as I flew further over the Far West to see the land changing to that distinctive orange-red colour, and the huge expanses of land with long, straight roads on them. There had been much rain in the area before I was there and we flew over the Menindee lakes, which was quite fascinating. As we approached Broken Hill I look down at the red earth and saw the shadow of the plan and was reminded of the opening sequences from the TV show 'The Flying Doctors'. I thought of an article I had read some years ago about a German man who had watched that show in Germany and decided not only to study medicine as a result of being inspired by that show, but also ended up migrating to Australia and working for the Royal Flying Doctor Service! Imagine my surprise when I arrived at the quaint, security unconscious Broken Hill Airport to find on display out front the carcass of the aeroplane that was used in the TV show - I had forgotten that it was actually filmed in Broken Hill.

My immediate impressions of the place were that it was actually very fascinating - that red dirt, and that attractive desert tundra sort of green-grey plant that grows everywhere; the beauty of the grand old buildings contrasted with the fascinating ugliness of the old mine that dominates the centre of town, actually bisecting it; and of course the very friendly people.

I was there for one night and spent most of my time working, but after work I went for a swim in one of the best swimming pools I have seen (and one of the cheapest - only $2 for a swim in the desert! - and again the friendliness; I had forgotten my swimmers so they found a pair in the lost property for me to wear...). At night I went to the very nice Broken Earth restaurant, located on top of the old mine and with spectacular sunset views all over town. Later I had a drink at one oif the very many large pubs in town and chatted with some of the amiable locals.

The next day after work on my way home I was able to check out South Broken Hill with its beautifully preserved main street including intact 1950s shops and milk bar.

It was a great place to visit and I would hope to go back some day.

Rue McClanahan dies

And then there was one – Betty White is the last remaining Golden Girl with the death of the fabulous Rue McClanahan.

Blanche was my favourite Golden Girl , and Rue McClannahan so clearly loved playing the part, often saying of the part for which she was most famous ‘People always ask me if I’m like Blanche, and I tell them that Blanche was a vain, self-absorbed mankiller from Atlanta, and I’m not from Atlanta.’

Last year I read Rue’s autobiography, and thoroughly enjoyed it – the title alone (My First Five Husbands) tells you that you are going to be in for a great read, and that is what it is. She writes with frankness and candour as though she’s chatting with a girlfriend and even rates her (many) lovers on an excitement scale.

Here is a classic Blanche moment from The Golden Girls:

Afternoon tea review: Rydges Capital Hill

Something fascinating has happened in Canberra: after years of the Hyatt reigning unchallenged as the monarch of afternoon tea in the Capital, the nearby Rydges Capital Hill has decided to serve a 'high tea' every Sunday. It's really an afternoon tea of course (and you do know the difference I'm sure), but nevertheless how exciting to have a bit of competition. Although the 1980s Rydges atrium is not quite on a par with the elegant 1920s Hyatt lounge, I thought the venue at least had potential to be a charming place for tea. So along we went to try it out.

Now, I must say that we went along on only their second weekend, so they may still have kinks to iron out (well, they do have kinks to iron out). And there are some positives: unlike the buffet-style Hyatt, they serve tea on a traditional three-tier platter. You sit in a proper chair at a proper table, which makes it all far more comfortable than being forced to sit akwardly in a deep sofa. The room is potentially quite pleasant, although it was a little chilly and the mismatched china (soon to be replaced I was informed) and the ghastly, overly loud and utterly inappropriate waltz music on a sticking CD booming through a dodgy sound system really did not help.

The food - at best it was pedestrian, I'm afraid, although pleasant enough for the less discerning and/or those more interested in the sweets than the savouries. The sandwiches were predictable (cucumber, egg and smoked salmon, all on white bread), and the scones were horrible (tiny and hard), but there were also some agreeable mini quiche and some pleasant petit fours.

Tea selection was minimal but adequate.

For $40 there was also a complimentary glass of (very sweet) sparkling wine.

Service was enthusiastic yet tardy.

Overall, I think it has promise, but it needs to work on it a bit. For now, it is a 5.5 out of 10 on the Scott Scale. They could aim for a 7 or 8 if they work at it.

Falcon Crest

I have just received my DVD copy of the first season of one of the best (and funniest) nighttime soaps - I speak of course of Jane Wyman's latter day triumph, Falcon Crest.

I am absolutely loving this early episodes of this great show - whoever thought that wine making could provide so much material for a melodrama (nine seasons worth).

I just hope that Warner Brothers continues to release the subsequent seasons, unlike Knots Landing which has had only a pathetic two seasons released.

Different types of tea rooms

With all of my talk about afternoon tea I have been rather neglectful of a different kind of tea room that has been emerging in Australia - that is, the Asian-style team room serving cold tea drinks that make the most perfect refreshment on a hot summer afternoon.

I recently discovered Ten-Ren's Tea Cafe (there are two of them, seemingly identical, opposite each other in Swanston Street). So far I have tried their kumquat green tea, watermelon green tea and plum green tea. My favourite is the kumquat. These cold drinks are absolutely delicious on a hot day. Next time I will try one of their cold milk tea drinks. I also love the no-nonsense decor of the cafes which feel just like they have been plucked right out of a bustling Hong Kong side street.

Iced teas are perfect for a summer afternoon. I make my own black iced tea at home by simply filling a container with cold water and putting in some of my favourite black tea leaves and leaving overnight. I then serve it poured over ice the following afternoon with a bit of fresh lemon or lime. I never add any sugar.

Afternoon tea review: The Westin Melbourne

Yesterday my generally low expectations for hotel afternoon teas in Melbourne was finally proven wrong when Tom and I enjoyed an excellent tea service in the lobby of the Westin Hotel.

The Westin does what they call a 'contemporary high tea' on weekends. Now, leaving aside this frequently perpetuated misnomer (a true high tea being a light and informal early evening meal served from a high table, as opposed to an afternoon tea or a 'low tea' served from low tables, such as this one was), I must say I was most impressed. This is easily the best value afternoon tea I have had at any Australian hotel, and among the best in terms of its excellent and interesting food and tea selections.

The light and airy foyer is a pleasant venue with lovely large windows looking over City Square and busy Swanston Street (there was a trapeze show happening in the square during our visit, which provided much diversion). The tea selection is quite interesting, focussed particularly in various green and other herbal Jing teas, although there are also a small selection of more traditional black teas. The teas are served in attractive glass pots and cups, to allow for appreciation of the tea's colours. The food was very good. It is based around some sort of healthy 'superfoods' theme, which is all earnestly explained in their menu. It really was a very generous serving, set out over not one but two three-tier platters: one for savouries and one for scones and sweets. As you may recall, I often think that afternoon tea purveyors neglect the savouries, which I often find the most enjoyable part of the meal, but that was not the case here. We had tasty meat and vegetable wraps, delicious roast pumpkin sandwiches, and lovely smoked salmon mini-bagels. The scones were served with a lovely fig jam and a strawberry jam, as well as a choice of cream or marscapone. The petit fours were small enough to eat daintily and were delicious. Service was attentive and friendly, yet also pleasingly relaxed and not uppity or stuffy.

At $45 with endless tea or coffee, it is among the pricier afternoon teas available, but the generous and delicious food selection and the interesting varieties of teas make it very good value. The Windsor charges about the same and I have to say the Westin is absolutely superior to the Windsor, which is resting on the laurels of its utterly undeserved reputation as "the" place for afternoon tea in Melbourne.

I had only one complaint: like so many other venues, the chairs at the Westin are absurdly deep and very uncomfortable. They are huge tub-style things that are impossible to sit in comfortably. I don't know why so many places insist of having these stupid low, deep chairs. At least the Windsor has comfortable high chairs at high tables - but that is the only aspect of afternoon tea that the Windsor does better than the Westin.

If not for the chairs, this tea would probably have been my first perfect score for an afternoon tea in Australia. As it is, I am giving it 8 out of 10 on the Scott Scale, which actually makes it my top-ranked Australian hotel for afternoon tea.

Incidentally, the current top Scott Scale rankings for afternoon tea are as follows:

SCOTT'S TOP TEN TEA VENUES (at Jan 2010)

Peninsula Hong Kong 9.5/10

Lovejoy's San Francisco 9/10

Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 8/10

Westin Melbourne 8/10

Ritz-Carlton Singapore 7.5/10

Four Seasons Hong Kong 7/10

Hyatt Hotel Canberra 7/10

Langham Place Hong Kong 7/10

Regent Singapore 7/10

Sheraton on the Park Sydney 7/10

Classic catfights

Well, having posted links to some YouTube clips of Dallas the other day, I thought I should give some exposure to that other '80s supersoap, Dynasty. It did not have JR and Sue Ellen, but it did have Krystle and Alexis and their annual catfights.

The first one was the best one, when Krystle tears Alexis's studio apart after an entire season of being bullied by Alexis and snapping when she finally realised that Alexis was responsible for causing her miscarriage. It was the highlight of the 1981-82 season.

The second one is probably the most famous, and in fact I saw it at the new permanent exhibit at ACMI the other day. It is of course the lily pond.

After that they seemed to have at least one fight a year, perhaps the most innovative being a mudslide rip-off of Romancing the Stone. Over the years the somewhat tacky value of girl-on-girl action was increasingly exploited by Dynasty as Alexis was forced to battle Dominique and Sable, and the younger girls like Sammy Jo and Fallon also got their share of catfights. To me, this all seemed to be a bit low-brow, whereas these first two catfights between Krystle and Alexis were so shocking and new - no one had really seen women behave like that on TV before.

One thing that is always amusing about the Krystle/Alexis catfights, and particularly obvious in the first clip here, is how little there is of Joan Collins - it is patently obvious that most of the "Alexis" we see is a stunt person in a wig. Famously, Joan Collins hated to do any of the 'physical' scenes and used a double for all but the most necessary shots, while Linda Evans apparently loved getting into the fights and did as much of her own stunt work as possible. The violence emanating from Krystle/Linda at the end of the first clip where she smashes Alexis's portrait of Blake is truly frightening. Although the two actresses spent years claiming to be friends in real life, Joan Collins recently dished the dirt in a rather tacky article in which she claimed that Linda physically abused her during a recent 'reunion' play the two women did. I guess some of that animosity, whatever was at the core of it, must have contributed to what made the on-screen hatred between Krystle and Alexis seem so realistic. And it sure made for some good catfights.